Ama dablam and Pumori Expedition | Peak Climbing in Nepal | Nepal Peak | Kailash Yatra 2020

Ama dablam and Pumori Expedition - 50 days

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Height: 23,494 feet (7,161 meters)
Location: Khumbu, Nepal, Asia
Lat/Lon: 28.0147°N, 86.8281°E

Located in Nepal Khumbu region this pyramid shaped 23,495 ft.peak dominates the skyline behind Kala Pataar (19,000 ft). Anyone who has made the trip to Everest either as a climber or trekker will remember Pumori’s distinctive shape. Named by George Leigh Mallory, "Pumori" apparently means "Unmarried Daughter" in the Sherpa language. Used as a training peak for past Everest teams this peak now is offered as a guided climb by many different companies. There may be as many as 20 expeditions per climbing season.

When to climb and guiding services

September to November and March to May are the most often used windows. The winter months add the eliment of cold and the monsoon the dangers of snow buildup.

Ama Dablam Expedition

Height: 22,467 feet (6,848 meters)
Location: Khumbu Himal, Nepal, Asia
Lat/Lon: 27.8617°N, 86.8639°E

Ama Dablam is known as one of the most impressive mountains in the world, not for it's altitude, but for it's beauty, aesthetics and the pure exposure encountered high on it's flanks. Most parties attempt the SW ridge, climbing expedition style, fixing ropes, ferrying loads, and acclimatizing slowly. The mountain has gained in popularity over the past 8 years. It's common to encounter high altitude Everest veterans having problems with the technical difficulties encountered on the crux pitches of this climb.

The climb feels like a 5.8 - 5.9 depending on conditions but it's really hard to say because I have always worn plastic boots, and all the climbing is above 6000M. I would have to recommend allowing 5 weeks for this expedition, taking into consideration bad weather, sickness, and multiple summit attempts.

Information about how the peak gets its name

Mother and her Necklace , Mother’s Charm Box , Mother's Jewel Box
"Ama" means mother, grandmother or even world. "Dablam" means charm box, and is a special pendant worn by elder Sherpa women that holds precious items. The mountain has a hanging glacier that resembles a dablam and the two extending ridges are outstreched like a maternal embrace."

Day by Day Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu transfer hotel

Day 02-03: Prepared Expedition & briefing in Ministry of Tourism

Day 04: Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding

Day 05: Phakding - Namche Bazaar

Day 06: Namche acclimatized

Day 07: Namche - Thyanboche

Day 08: Thyanboche - Ama Dablam Base Camp

Day 09-23: climbing Period of Ama Dablam 6812m.

Day 24: Ama Dablam BC - Pheriche

Day 25: Pheriche - Lobuche

Day 26: Lobuche - Pumori Base Camp

Day 27- 41: Climbing Period of Pumori 7161m

Day 42: Pumori Base Camp - Lobuche

Day 43: Lobuche - Thyanboche

Day 45: Namche - Phakding

Day 46: Phakding - Lukla

Day 47: fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 48-49: Kathmandu

Day 50: Final Departure

Mountaineering royalty fee

Realising mountaineering as the back-bone of Nepal's tourism industry, the Government of Nepal has made following decisions in a bid to make mountaineering royalty fee competitive amongst the neighbouring countries, promote mountains lying in remote and less privileged areas, and create environment to transform the seasonal mountaineering business operational round the year and materialize the concept of 'Nepal for all Seasons':

Provide discount of 50% in Winter and Summer Season and 75% in Autumn Season keeping intact the Royalty Fee in Spring Season.
Increase the number of climbing member in an expedition from 12 to 15.
Provide 100% discount on Royalty Fee for mountains located in Mid and Far Western Development Regions for 5 years.
Implement Incremental Royalty Break-down System (IRDS), a system under which permit fee increases with the increase in number of climbing members, on all mountains instead of lump sum per expedition having climbing members seven or less than that.

Name of Mountain: Everest (8,848m)
Climbing Route: South East Ridge ( Normal Route )

No. Of Climbers	Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring	Autumn	Winter/Summer
One Climber	25,000	12,500	6,250
Two Climbers	40,000	20,000	10,000
Three Climbers	48,000	24,000	12,000
Four Climbers	56,000	28,000	14,000
Five Climbers	60,000	30,000	15,000
Six Climbers	66,000	33,000	16,500
Seven Climbers	70,000	35,000	17,500
Per Extra Climber (One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)	10,000	5,000	2,500

Name of Mountain: Everest (8,848m)
Climbing Route: All Routes Except South East Ridge ( Normal Route )

No. Of Climbers	Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring	Autumn	Winter/Summer
One Climber	15,000	7,500	3,750
Two Climbers	21,000	10,500	5,250
Three Climbers	27,000	13,500	6,750
Four Climbers	33,000	16,500	8,250
Five Climbers	39,000	19,500	9,750
Six Climbers	45,000	22,500	11,250
Seven Climbers	50,000	25,000	12,500
Per Extra Climber (One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)	10,000	5,000	2,500

Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 8,000 m (except Everest)

No. Of Climbers	Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring	Autumn	Winter/Summer
One Climber	5,000	2,500	1250
Two Climbers	6,000	3,000	1500
Three Climbers	7000	3,500	1,750
Four Climbers	8000	4000	2000
Five Climbers	8500	4250	2125
Six Climbers	9000	4500	2250
Seven Climbers	10000	5,000	2500
Per Extra Climber (One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)	1500	1000	500

Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 7,501m to 7999m

No. Of Climbers	Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring	Autumn	Winter/Summer
One Climber	2,000	1000	500
Two Climbers	2400	1200	600
Three Climbers	2800	1400	700
Four Climbers	3200	1600	800
Five Climbers	3600	1800	900
Six Climbers	3800	1900	950
Seven Climbers	4000	2000	1000
Per Extra Climber (One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)	500	400	200

Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 7,000m to 7500m

No. Of Climbers	Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring	Autumn	Winter/Summer
One Climber	1500	750	375
Two Climbers	1800	900	450
Three Climbers	2100	1050	525
Four Climbers	2400	1200	600
Five Climbers	2600	1300	650
Six Climbers	2800	1400	700
Seven Climbers	3000	1500	750
Per Extra Climber (One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)	400	250	150

Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 6501m to 6999m

No. Of Climbers	Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring	Autumn	Winter/Summer
One Climber	1000	500	250
Two Climbers	1200	600	300
Three Climbers	1400	700	350
Four Climbers	1600	800	400
Five Climbers	1800	900	450
Six Climbers	1900	950	475
Seven Climbers	2000	1000	500
Per Extra Climber (One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)	300	200	100

Name of Mountain: Amadablam (6812m)

No. Of Climbers	Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring/Autumn	Winter/Summer
One Climber	1000	500
Two Climbers	1200	600
Three Climbers	1400	700
Four Climbers	1600	800
Five Climbers	1800	900
Six Climbers	1900	950
Seven Climbers	2000	1000
Per Extra Climber (One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)	300	200

Height of Mountain: 6,500m or Below

No. Of Climbers	Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring	Autumn	Winter/Summer
One Climber	400	200	100
Two Climbers	500	250	125
Three Climbers	600	300	150
Four Climbers	700	350	175
Five Climbers	800	400	200
Six Climbers	900	450	225
Seven Climbers	1000	500	250
Per Extra Climber (One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)	200	100	50

What is included in the price?

Accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (hotel 3-5 star Level)
Food for trekking & Expedition period in Base camp
1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
Dining tent, toilet tent, table and chares, Mattresses for expedition
All kitchen equipment for Base Camp
Liaison officer's allowances equipment for Expedition, flight ticket, insurance, daily wages
Expedition Crew's allowances for Expedition, flight ticket, insurance, daily wages
All transfer airport-hotel-airport
Crews: Base camp Guide, Cook, Kitchen boy and Kitchen helper
All necessary taxes
Emergency Oxygen- Mask and regulator
Satellite phone (Pay call)
Gamo Bag (life saving device in case of altitude sickness)
Fare well dinner

What is not included in the price?

Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
High altitude climbing food, fuel, Gas above base camp
Expedition personal climbing gears
Personal accident insurance and emergency evacuation,
Helicopter rescue
International airport departure tax
Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving into Nepal
Expedition cargo custom clearance
Bar bills & beverage
Personal Satellite phone with e-mail & internet permit
Waki takies permit
Extra expenses for personal
Oxygen and Mask regulator for climbing
Garbage Deposit USD 4000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber)

Trip Fact

Trip codeEHCS-60233
DestinationNepal
Duration50 days / 49 nights
SeasonSeptember to November and March to May
Group SizeMin. 2pax + 12pax above
activitiesAma dablam and Pumori Expedition

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